The Trip through Canada

The summer is over and all we have left of it are our memories, a daily log, photos, and bits and bobs of information collected along the way.  Our summer cruise covered 780 miles and each week seemed to outdo the last.  We consider ourselves pretty experienced when it comes to covering the waterways since we have spent 30+ years cruising, mostly in Europe.  But in 2012 we headed north to Canada.

Our departure began from Clay, New York on the Erie Canal where Oasis, our 33-ft. tugboat had wintered at Pirate’s Cover Marina.  We spent one month tidying up the ship and what you do before a summer’s cruise.  The temperatures were above normal for a couple of those weeks when the boat was still on the hard.  We didn’t tolerate 97 degrees too well with no chance for any breeze to find us, so we got in our air-conditioned car and drove to Peterborough to see the ship lifts.  We spent two days visiting with staff, comparing this site with those we had gone through in Belgium and France.

On July13, we went north on the Oswego Canal to where else—Oswego.  There we had also visited by car and had planned to stay in a marina until Lake Ontario was kind to us.  However, one night moored at the city dock was all that was necessary as at 5 a.m. the next morning we had a great weather forecast.  Oasis is a beautiful tug and so very comfortable though our cruising speed is 6 mph.  Some people find that too slow but we have never had a fast boat and we move along just fine.  We found our way into the Kingston Marina and stayed there for a week.  It’s a lovely city.  The first weekend the Buskers were on show filling the streets with lots of performers and visitors. 

 One is wondering is this week going to be the highlight of our summer.  We’re moving on headed to the Rideau Canal.  This canal was built because the British feared an invasion across the St. Lawrence River, thus a second route from the Great Lakes to Montreal.  The St. Lawrence was upper Canada’s main supply route with Britain and Quebec and the alternate route would provide a trade route. We’ll travel through small lakes to the Cataraqui River and continue to Ottawa and its river to Montreal, up to Sorel, and down the Richelieu which feeds into Lake Champlain and the Champlain Canal to Waterford, the beginning of the Erie Canal.  One definitely needs to see this on a map to appreciate the trip.

 Our review will describe our personal highlights, naturally leaving out many good parts but noting those that raise a flag.  The review will be divided into GEOGRAPHICAL HIGHLIGHTS,  the PEOPLE WHO LEFT AN IMPRESSION, and last but not least, the GOURMAND memories.

 GEOGRAPHICAL HIGHLIGHTS:  As we said, we have traveled most European canals.  And, we both agreed that the Rideau Canal is close to the top of our “beautiful waterway” list. This canal was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, having opened in 1832, the oldest continuously operated canal in North America.  We have passed through thousands of canal and river locks and none has been as enjoyable and pleasant as on the Rideau.  Number one – the water enters and leaves at the bottom of the lock so you do not experience rushing water coming at you from the lock gates.  The lines run along the lock walls so you can either hold on to that line and/or wrap you own lines around a cable.  It’s easy-peasy.  The lockkeepers are often 2 and as many as 7 when using a series of staircase locks.  They are there to assist, if needed.  Men and women staff seem to enjoy their jobs.  The facilities include water and electricity (at a nominal cost, $9.80 for our tug) plus very clean restrooms.  Each lock was similar to a park setting and camping was very popular as well as folks traveling in canoes, kayaks, on bicycles or walking.  You could usually stay 2 nights at the entrance or exit and if they weren’t full, you could stay longer. 

 One never got bored as there was much to see and do along the way.  By going in and out of small lakes, the trip stayed new and fresh.  It is truly a spectacular route that includes country living, forests, and gorgeous scenery.  .

 Westport, the Village:  It’s difficult to pick just one or two but it’s hard to imagine a more beautiful spot to spend a day or two, just you and your boat at their harbour.  While enjoying the parade of folks who walked about the marina and getting a good perspective of the town itself, we also took a hike to the top of Foley Mountain.  It’s a great place to enjoy a picnic and look over the Upper Rideau waterway.  There are 9 kilometres of trails but having walked to the top, we figured that enough for one day.

Merrickville, another lovely village:  Do you need a ride back to Smith Falls to collect your car?  The lockkeeper learned that our family who was visiting for a few days were looking for a taxi and he immediately offered them a ride.  He was going that way at the end of the day…. We enjoyed the many shops, the small art gallery, the festival events, the good fishing, and the very friendly people.

 Perth on the Tay River:  We chose to take a detour based on suggestions from the locals and found this community with its Georgian architecture and stone masonry worth the effort.  We tied up in a slip, newly renovated, which was a part of the Last Duel Park and Campground.  We walked the streets into the city center but on our return to our mooring found a trail in a forest setting. 

 Ottawa, the city:  Oh, so beautiful.  We stayed for a week and each day found new places of interest to visit--a  Farmers’ Market, a large shopping complex called the Rideau Center, an 8-lock staircase leading down to the Ottawa River, historical landmarks, a new convention center, wide boulevards for pedestrians, and restaurants galore

Burton Island Vermont State Park.  We chose to visit here based on the description of the moorings.  Jeff and Maggie Teitelbaum from nearby Franklin had come to the most northern marina on Lake Champlain for a visit and a boat ride .  When we arrived at the Park it was empty except for one other boat.  By Labor Day weekend, the boat slips were all taken.  Inclement weather forced us to extend our visit.  If one had to be stuck in one place, this was a good area to relax and enjoy the hiking, the local sandwich shop, and the beautiful grounds of the island.

 PEOPLE WHO STOOD OUT ALONG THE WAY:

Several women traveling in canoes who were Scouts of Canada.  We crisscrossed with them on several occasions on the way to the summit.  It was interesting watching them set up camp which is provided at each Rideau lock.

 Definitely the lockkeepers.  Besides offering a ride in his car, many were interested in us and our unique tug.  They were a wealth of information and always seemed eager to help.

For our 33-foot tug, we paid $9.80/for electricity for each night we tied by the lock, well worth every cent.

Canadians in general.  Stop anyone on the street for directions or suggestions and they were gracious hosts.

 

A fellow cruiser, Kent Strobel and his wife, Annie, whom we met on several occasions along the way.   They had a houseboat and two dogs.

 The Doner Studio at the Mill:  These artists are located northeast of Kingston at the Lower Brewers Lock on the Rideau Canal.  Though we aren’t dedicated shoppers, we were curious about the art.  Randal Doner specializes in metal art and Darlene Doner has a gift shop displaying jewelry and other arts items.  It’s definitely worth a visit.

Whitehall Locals:  While checking out at a store, 2 men heard us inquire of the cashier about where we could purchase a propane part.  The men said there was no store in the area open that Sunday but they could either take us to another town to a discount store and/or sell us their part from their own propane tank.  This they did—they drove us to the home of one of the men and we thought this a good example of people helping people.

 

GOURMAND TREATS:

Dale Moore, owner of the Nest Egg, an ice cream shop that includes crafts and collectables.   Throughout our summer we didn’t find an ice cream shop that we didn’t like.  This one was special and is located at Sealey’s Bay

 The Cove Country Inn, Westport-on-the-Rideau.  This was probably our best “night out” of the summer.  The restaurant that is part of the resort served a spectacular meal.  Each course was outstanding, the service was excellent, and it was all within walking distance of the port.  There were several outdoor patios and a dining room inside.

The only pizza we ate all summer (and most Friday nights at home are reserved for pizza) was at Chambly.  The restaurant was very near the marina and the pizza so tasty.  The place was full of patrons, always a good sign.

 In the town of Perth, we happened upon a Mexican restaurant.  Since we have a long liking for Mexican, we convinced ourselves to have an early meal, selected a table overlooking the a branch of the River Tay, and enjoyed a favorite respite.  Dinner began with a gorgeous mango Marquarita and we would welcome a visit back there again.

In summary, we had one of our best summer cruises ever.  We stopped in Waterford on the Erie Canal to attend the Tugboat Roundup before heading back to Pirate’s Cove Marina, in Clay.