The Trip through Canada
The summer is over and all we have left of it are our
memories, a daily log, photos, and bits and bobs of information collected along
the way. Our summer cruise covered 780
miles and each week seemed to outdo the last.
We consider ourselves pretty experienced when it comes to covering the
waterways since we have spent 30+ years cruising, mostly in Europe. But in 2012 we headed north to Canada.
Our departure began from Clay, New York on the Erie Canal
where Oasis, our 33-ft. tugboat had wintered at Pirate’s Cover Marina. We spent one month tidying up the ship and
what you do before a summer’s cruise.
The temperatures were above normal for a couple of those weeks when the
boat was still on the hard. We didn’t
tolerate 97 degrees too well with no chance for any breeze to find us, so we
got in our air-conditioned car and drove to Peterborough to see the ship
lifts. We spent two days visiting with
staff, comparing this site with those we had gone through in Belgium and
France.
On July13, we went north on the Oswego Canal to where
else—Oswego. There we had also visited
by car and had planned to stay in a marina until Lake Ontario was kind to
us. However, one night moored at the city
dock was all that was necessary as at 5 a.m. the next morning we had a great
weather forecast. Oasis is a beautiful
tug and so very comfortable though our cruising speed is 6 mph. Some people find that too slow but we have
never had a fast boat and we move along just fine. We found our way into the Kingston Marina and
stayed there for a week. It’s a lovely
city. The first weekend the Buskers were
on show filling the streets with lots of performers and visitors.
One is wondering is this week going to be the highlight of
our summer. We’re moving on headed to
the Rideau Canal. This canal was built
because the British feared an invasion across the St. Lawrence River, thus a
second route from the Great Lakes to Montreal.
The St. Lawrence was upper Canada’s main supply route with Britain and
Quebec and the alternate route would provide a trade route. We’ll travel
through small lakes to the Cataraqui River and continue to Ottawa and its river
to Montreal, up to Sorel, and down the Richelieu which feeds into Lake
Champlain and the Champlain Canal to Waterford, the beginning of the Erie
Canal. One definitely needs to see this
on a map to appreciate the trip.
Our review will describe our personal highlights, naturally
leaving out many good parts but noting those that raise a flag. The review will be divided into GEOGRAPHICAL
HIGHLIGHTS, the PEOPLE WHO LEFT AN
IMPRESSION, and last but not least, the GOURMAND memories.
GEOGRAPHICAL HIGHLIGHTS:
As we said, we have traveled most European canals. And, we both agreed that the Rideau Canal is
close to the top of our “beautiful waterway” list. This canal was named a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, having opened in 1832, the oldest continuously
operated canal in North America. We have
passed through thousands of canal and river locks and none has been as
enjoyable and pleasant as on the Rideau.
Number one – the water enters and leaves at the bottom of the lock so
you do not experience rushing water coming at you from the lock gates. The lines run along the lock walls so you can
either hold on to that line and/or wrap you own lines around a cable. It’s easy-peasy. The lockkeepers are often 2 and as many as 7
when using a series of staircase locks.
They are there to assist, if needed.
Men and women staff seem to enjoy their jobs. The facilities include water and electricity
(at a nominal cost, $9.80 for our tug) plus very clean restrooms. Each lock was similar to a park setting and
camping was very popular as well as folks traveling in canoes, kayaks, on
bicycles or walking. You could usually
stay 2 nights at the entrance or exit and if they weren’t full, you could stay
longer.
One never got bored as there was much to see and do along
the way. By going in and out of small
lakes, the trip stayed new and fresh. It
is truly a spectacular route that includes country living, forests, and
gorgeous scenery. .
Westport, the Village:
It’s difficult to pick just one or two but it’s hard to imagine a more
beautiful spot to spend a day or two, just you and your boat at their
harbour. While enjoying the parade of
folks who walked about the marina and getting a good perspective of the town
itself, we also took a hike to the top of Foley Mountain. It’s a great place to enjoy a picnic and look
over the Upper Rideau waterway. There
are 9 kilometres of trails but having walked to the top, we figured that enough
for one day.
Merrickville, another lovely village: Do you need a ride back to Smith Falls to
collect your car? The lockkeeper learned
that our family who was visiting for a few days were looking for a taxi and he
immediately offered them a ride. He was
going that way at the end of the day…. We enjoyed the many shops, the small art
gallery, the festival events, the good fishing, and the very friendly people.
Perth on the Tay River:
We chose to take a detour based on suggestions from the locals and found
this community with its Georgian architecture and stone masonry worth the
effort. We tied up in a slip, newly
renovated, which was a part of the Last Duel Park and Campground. We walked the streets into the city center
but on our return to our mooring found a trail in a forest setting.
Ottawa, the city: Oh,
so beautiful. We stayed for a week and
each day found new places of interest to visit--a Farmers’ Market, a large shopping complex
called the Rideau Center, an 8-lock staircase leading down to the Ottawa River,
historical landmarks, a new convention center, wide boulevards for pedestrians,
and restaurants galore
Burton Island Vermont State Park. We chose to visit here based on the
description of the moorings. Jeff and
Maggie Teitelbaum from nearby Franklin had come to the most northern marina on
Lake Champlain for a visit and a boat ride .
When we arrived at the Park it was empty except for one other boat. By Labor Day weekend, the boat slips were all
taken. Inclement weather forced us to
extend our visit. If one had to be stuck
in one place, this was a good area to relax and enjoy the hiking, the local
sandwich shop, and the beautiful grounds of the island.
PEOPLE WHO STOOD OUT ALONG THE WAY:
Several women traveling in canoes who were Scouts of
Canada. We crisscrossed with them on
several occasions on the way to the summit.
It was interesting watching them set up camp which is provided at each
Rideau lock.
Definitely the lockkeepers.
Besides offering a ride in his car, many were interested in us and our
unique tug. They were a wealth of
information and always seemed eager to help.
For our 33-foot tug, we paid $9.80/for electricity for each night we tied by the lock,
well worth every cent.
Canadians in general.
Stop anyone on the street for directions or suggestions and they were
gracious hosts.
A fellow cruiser, Kent Strobel and his wife, Annie, whom we
met on several occasions along the way.
They had a houseboat and two dogs.
The Doner Studio at the Mill: These artists are located northeast of
Kingston at the Lower Brewers Lock on the Rideau Canal. Though we aren’t dedicated shoppers, we were
curious about the art. Randal Doner
specializes in metal art and Darlene Doner has a gift shop displaying jewelry
and other arts items. It’s definitely
worth a visit.
Whitehall Locals:
While checking out at a store, 2 men heard us inquire of the cashier
about where we could purchase a propane part.
The men said there was no store in the area open that Sunday but they
could either take us to another town to a discount store and/or sell us their
part from their own propane tank. This
they did—they drove us to the home of one of the men and we thought this a good
example of people helping people.
GOURMAND TREATS:
Dale Moore, owner of the Nest Egg, an ice cream shop that
includes crafts and collectables.
Throughout our summer we didn’t find an ice cream shop that we didn’t
like. This one was special and is
located at Sealey’s Bay
The Cove Country Inn, Westport-on-the-Rideau. This was probably our best “night out” of the
summer. The restaurant that is part of
the resort served a spectacular meal.
Each course was outstanding, the service was excellent, and it was all
within walking distance of the port.
There were several outdoor patios and a dining room inside.
The only pizza we ate all summer (and most Friday nights at
home are reserved for pizza) was at Chambly.
The restaurant was very near the marina and the pizza so tasty. The place was full of patrons, always a good
sign.
In the town of Perth, we happened upon a Mexican restaurant. Since we have a long liking for Mexican, we
convinced ourselves to have an early meal, selected a table overlooking the a
branch of the River Tay, and enjoyed a favorite respite. Dinner began with a gorgeous mango Marquarita
and we would welcome a visit back there again.
In summary, we had one of our best summer cruises ever. We stopped in Waterford on the Erie Canal to
attend the Tugboat Roundup before heading back to Pirate’s Cove Marina, in
Clay.
